Buying Used Harley-Davidson Wheels: Sizes, Axles, Bearings and What We Check Before One Goes on the Shelf

Buying Used Harley-Davidson Wheels: Sizes, Axles, Bearings and What We Check Before One Goes on the Shelf

After engines, wheels are the thing people search for most on this site: "wheels", "rims", "dyna wheels", "06 street glide wheels", "mag wheels chrome", "fxstc rims". A used factory wheel is one of the better buys in the yard, because a wheel from a bike that was wrecked in the fairing is usually a wheel with nothing wrong with it. But it is also one of the easier parts to get wrong, because Harley changed axle sizes, tire sizes and bearing specs across the years without changing what the wheel looks like.

As of September 13, 2026 we have 132 wheel listings on the shelf: 48 off Touring bikes, 20 off Sportsters, 14 off Softails, 10 off Dynas, and the rest from bikes that came in without a model tag. Sixty-four of them are 16-inch wheels, which tells you most of what you need to know about which bikes we take in.

Used rear wheel and tire from a 2011 Harley-Davidson Street Glide, 180/65B16, at Exclusive Harley Parts
A 2011 Street Glide rear wheel, 180/65B16, listed at $252. The 2009-2013 Touring rear is the most common wheel on our shelf.

First, know what size your bike runs

The tire size molded on your existing tire is the fastest answer, and it tells you the rim size too: a 180/65B16 is a 16-inch rear, a 130/80B17 is a 17-inch front. The common factory combinations we see in the yard:

Bike Front Rear On our shelf
Touring, 1984 to 2008 (Electra Glide, Road King, early Street Glide) 16 in, MT90B16 16 in, MT90B16 or 150/80B16 Plenty; the 1999-2006 shelf is deepest
Touring, 2009 to 2013 (Street Glide, Road Glide) 17 in, 130/80B17 16 in, 180/65B16 Common; Street Glide rears from $153
Touring, 2009 and later (Road King, Electra Glide) 16 in, 130/90B16 or 130/80B17 on some 16 in, 180/65B16 Common
Touring, 2014 and later (Street Glide Special, Road Glide) 19 in on most Road Glides and Specials 16 in, 180/65B16; 18 in on later Road Kings and Specials Thinner; 2015 Road Glide and 2017 Road Glide sets listed
Dyna Wide Glide, Sportster Custom, Night Train 21 in, MH90-21 16 in, 150/80B16 A few 21s; they go fast
Dyna Super Glide, Low Rider, Fat Bob 19 in (17 in on Fat Bob) 16 in, 160/70B17 or 180/70R16 on Fat Bob 10 listed
Softail Heritage, Fat Boy, Deluxe 16 in, 130/90B16 16 in, 150/80B16; 17 in 200-section on 2007 and later Fat Boy and Standard 14 listed, mostly spoked Heritage wheels
Sportster 883 and 1200 19 in, or 21 in on Customs, or 16 in on Low and Iron models 16 in, 150/80B16; 17 in on SuperLow 20 listed

Two things the table does not show. Front and rear wheels on the same bike often have different bearing and hub widths even when they are the same diameter, so a rear does not go on the front. And a rim size match is only the beginning; the axle and the brake side have to match too.

2008: the axle change that catches Touring owners

Through 2007, Touring wheels ran on a 1-inch axle. From 2008 the front and rear axles grew to 25 mm, and the wheel bearings changed to suit. A 2007-and-earlier Touring wheel will not go straight onto a 2008-or-later bike, or the other way round, without the correct bearings and spacers, and even then the brake rotor offset and the ABS encoder need checking. This is why our Touring wheel listings are grouped as 1999-2006, 2007-2011, and 2008-2016: the split is the axle, not the model year.

Dyna and Softail made the same change at about the same time. If you are matching a wheel across the 2007-2008 line on any Big Twin, measure the axle before you buy.

ABS: the ring on the hub

Brembo brakes with optional ABS came to Touring in 2008, and ABS bikes carry an encoder ring on the wheel hub that the sensor reads. A wheel off a non-ABS bike going onto an ABS bike needs that ring, and a wheel off an ABS bike will work on a non-ABS bike but will have a ring you do not need. Our listings note ABS where we know it; if the listing does not say, ask. There are 267 ABS-related parts on the shelf, including the sensors and lines, if you are adding the ring rather than swapping the wheel.

What to check on a used wheel

This is the order we go through when a wheel comes off a donor, and it is the same list you should run on any used wheel, ours included.

  • Straightness. Spin it on an axle and watch the rim edge against a fixed point. A cast wheel with a visible wobble is scrap, and we say so in the title: one Dyna rear on the shelf right now is listed as "BENT" in capital letters because that is what it is. A spoked wheel with a wobble can be trued; a cast wheel cannot.
  • Cracks at the spokes. On cast wheels, look where each spoke meets the rim and the hub. On laced wheels, check for loose or broken spokes and rust at the nipples.
  • Bearings. Sealed bearings should turn smoothly with no notchiness and no side play. Harley went to sealed wheel bearings on Touring in 2000, so anything older has serviceable bearings that are worth replacing on principle. Our wheels ship with the bearings that were in them; if you want fresh ones, budget for it.
  • The tire. Most of our wheels come with the tire that was on the bike, and the listing says so ("Wheel Rim Tire"). Check the date code on the sidewall; a tire more than six or seven years old is a tire you will replace regardless of tread. Treat a used wheel's tire as a bonus, not a reason to buy.
  • Rotor and pulley mounting faces. Rotors and the rear pulley bolt to the wheel and usually come off before the wheel is listed. Check the bolt holes for damage and confirm whether the listing includes them; the photos show what ships.
  • Valve stem and rim strip. Cheap to replace, but a cracked stem on a tubeless wheel is a slow leak waiting for you.
Used spoked front and rear wheel set from a 2011 Harley-Davidson Heritage Softail Classic at Exclusive Harley Parts
Spoked 16-inch front and rear set off a 2011 Heritage Softail Classic, $526.50. Check every spoke and nipple on a laced wheel before you buy.

What a used Harley wheel costs in our yard right now

From our live listings on September 13, 2026:

  • Single wheels run from about $153 (a 2007-2011 Street Glide rear) to about $825 (a late Sportster Iron 883 rear), with most between $220 and $630. Touring rears in the 180/65B16 size are the cheapest thing on the wheel shelf because we have the most of them.
  • Front-and-rear sets run from about $465 to $1,485. Matched sets off one bike are worth the premium if you are replacing both, because the finish and wear match.
  • Spoked wheels (25 listed) and factory accessory wheels with names like Enforcer, Airstrike and Agitator sit toward the top of the range. Chrome adds to the price; a chrome 2001 Electra Glide set is listed at $1,440.

Every wheel we list carries the donor bike's stock number, so you can see the bike it came off and how many miles it had. Wheels ship by standard carrier and qualify for free US shipping on orders over $70; sets and 21-inch fronts may go as oversized, and the shipping page has the rules.

Bearings, spacers and axles: the small parts that make the wheel fit

If you are moving a wheel between years, the bearings and spacers are the whole job. We have 219 axle-related listings on the shelf, including complete axle-and-spacer sets from the donor bikes. The right way to buy a used wheel for a different-year bike is to buy the axle, spacers and bearings from the same donor at the same time, so everything that touches the wheel came off the bike the wheel was on.

Browse the wheel and axle shelf, or go by bike: Touring, Dyna, Softail, Sportster. If you have a tire size and a year, call +1 440-817-0268 and we will tell you what fits.

Written by the Exclusive Harley Parts team, Euclid, Ohio. Stock counts and prices are taken from our live inventory on September 13, 2026 and change daily. Fitment notes are general guidance from the yard, not a substitute for the factory parts catalog. This article was drafted with AI assistance from our own catalog data and reviewed by our staff before publishing.